Fabric durability, weight and fineness
On our fabric swatches you will find stickers with all kind of numbers, indications and abbreviations that help guide our experts for your ideal suit. What do they all mean and what are the differences? All these questions will be answered below.
Fabric Fineness
Super numbers
Super numbers are usually the first things you’ll see when it comes to suiting fabric. Super refers to how fine the individual strands of wool are that have been spun into yarn and then woven into a fabric. It is generally noted on the back of the fabric as ‘Super’ or ‘S’ followed by a number 80 through 200.
This number indicates how many strands can be made from one kilogram of raw wool. Now, as you can imagine, the more strands made out of one kilogram of wool, the higher the count and thus the finer the wool. This means the fabric will be softer, more flexible, more luxurious and yet more vulnerable. Very fine fabrics, like Super-180+ won’t stand up to everyday wear compared to Super-120 or Super-130 wool.
Fineness of wool is generally measured in microns (μm) or millionths of a meter. It’s an extremely small measurement, fitting for a solitary wool fibre. Your average S100 count wool is about 18.75μm in diameter. For comparison, the average human hair is about 100μm wide. A very fine measurement of a woollen strand is under 16μm (S160 wool).
For a suit you will be wearing once a week, we suggest going with a fabric between S100 and S130. This way, you are wearing a fine fabric that will feel great to the touch, while still being durable enough to withstand a weekly beating. However for special occasion wear, like a tuxedo or a wedding suit, we recommend finer fabrics like a S150 to S180 wool, which will be soft to the touch and make you look and feel your best.
Single vs. Two-Ply
Ply refers to the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread. Two-ply, also named Doppio Ritorto, is a fabric manufacturing technique in which double-twisted yarns are used for weaving the fabric. Two-ply fabrics are luxurious to wear with a smooth, crisp feel, generally superior to single-ply fabrics. Of course, that’s not to say single-ply fabrics are not luxurious – higher count single ply fabrics with compact construction are equally sought after.
Fabric Weight
The weight of fabric basically tells you which season or temperature it is most appropriate for. This is usually indicated in grams or ounces and is based on the weight of one yard (91 cm) of fabric. We personally prefer grams, because it is a more detailed approach, but older English mills tend to use ounces. The typical fabric weights are between 175g and 320g. Of course, there are heavier and lighter fabrics, but the majority of fine suiting fabrics will land within this range.
A fabric’s weight is determined by how dense the fabric is woven, its composition and how it is finished. So contrary to popular belief, a fine high-super fabric does not necessarily mean it will weigh less.
English mills tend to make heavier fabrics because before heating the fireplace, and your clothes were the only things that kept you warm. The Italians, however, have milder winters and hot summers so their fabric tends to be lighter. In the 1930s, a style emerged from Napoli of bold and lightweight fabrics that has prevailed ever since.
So how do you know what fabric is right for you?
Super lightweight; 175G – 225G
Only wear for tropical conditions
Light weight: 225G – 250G
Good for tropics and summer time
Mid weight: 250G – 285G
Good all year round.
Heavy weight 285 +
Good for fall and winter
Fabric Durability
We have developed our own fabric Durability Index.
It’s here to help guide your customers, manage their expectations and ensure they get the most out of their made-to-measure garments. For example, before your customer orders a blend of wool, silk and cashmere, they should be advised on the proper care instructions, including that such luxurious materials are sensitive to wear and tear. Remember to tell all your customers that even the most durable garments require conscious maintenance in order to prolong their lifespan. After all, a well-informed customer is a happy customer and a happy customer means more loyalty (and more sales) for you.
The Durability Index uses a scale of DI 1 to DI 5:
DI 1
The most delicate fabrics made of exclusive materials, requiring gentle care. Fabrics with this DI indication will be vulnerable to pilling and abrasion after intensive wear.
DI 5
The most durable fabrics made of materials built to withstand routine use. Fabrics with the highest DI indication take far longer to show any pilling and abrasion after intensive wear.
Suit Care Tips
To make a suit last as long as possible, it is important to care for your garment. Here are some tips:
Never wash a jacket, waistcoat or trousers yourself! Take them to a professional dry cleaning service.
Do not wear the same suit every day. Ideally, wear it no more than twice a week, with at least one day of rest in between.
Minimise dry cleaning. For a suit that is worn once a week with the proper amount of rest, we suggest once a year.
Store a suit in a dry, well-ventilated and dust-free closet. Preferably placing mothballs nearby too.
Remove stains as quickly as possible with soap-free, lukewarm water.
Never iron woollen suits without placing a cloth between the fabric and the iron.