The 4 basic constructions of a necktie

Tipped

The most traditional of our tie makes, the outer shell (a.k.a. the main fabric) of our tipped tie is first cut by hand on the bias and then folded 3 times around a bias-cut, Como silk interlining, pinned in shape, stitched by hand and fastened shut using a traditional ‘punto occhiello’ cross-stitch, which is placed relatively far from the tip on both ends. Our tipped tie’s handmade construction makes the occasional cleaning possible: a skilled tailor can undo the stitches, disassemble the tie, clean the fabric and then put it back together for continued use. The following fabrics are not available in our tipped make: satin, ottoman, velvet and knit.

Un-tipped

Just like our unconstructed jackets, our un-tipped ties are completely void of all interfacing and/or linings. A classic 1930’s standard, the absence of a lining translates to a thinner tie, a slightly less full and therefore more casual look, and a lighter and cooler feel. Highly recommended for a less formal look. The following fabrics are not available in our un-tipped make: satin, ottoman, velvet and knit.

7-fold

Our 7-fold tipped tie is similar to our tipped tie, except that it has been folded around its Como silk interlining 7 times (instead of 3), requiring extra fabric and resulting in an even fuller drape. Because the interlining is left out of our un-tipped 7-fold, its drape is less full than our 7-fold tipped but more full than our standard un-tipped tie. The ‘punto occhiello’ cross stitch has also been placed even further from each tip on both our tipped and untipped 7-fold ties. Perfect for fancy affairs and formal business wear.

Bobtail (knits only)

Our contemporary bobtail construction offers everything you need for an outstanding knit tie, custom made to perfection in either wool or silk. Slightly less wide than your average tie (5.5 cm, to be exact) and featuring 2 straight ‘bobtail’ edges, these ties give you a little something different. Try a silk bobtail for a smooth feel and a relaxed drape that will see you through every kind of weather or choose a more textured woollen bobtail to accent your fall and winter outfits.

Your custom tie dimensions

Widths 6/7/8/9 cm

While 7 cm is the modern standard, most of our ties are available in 6, 7, 8 or 9 cms wide (see table below). A simple rule of thumb: the width of your tie should, generally, be equal to the widest part of your lapels. Remember, your tie is always part of the bigger picture (which is the person wearing it!), so make sure to use things like body type, shirt collar, face shape and the fit of one’s suit to inform the decision-making process. The following table provides an overview of the possible widths per make.

• Tipped: 6,7,8, or 9 cm

• Un-tipped: 6,7,8, or 9 cm

• 7-Fold (tipped or un-tipped): : 7,8, or 9 cm

• Bobtail: 5.5 cm

Lengths

Our ties are available in 3 lengths: Standard: 148 cm Long: 165 cm* Extra long: 175 cm*